Yield: about 16 bars Recipe: 130/200 “Back to Baking”, pp. 72
This recipe was fun and simple to make. Pulse all the ingredients except the raspberry jam together, press half of it in the pan and layer the raspberry jam and the rest of the crumble mixture on top. It smelled nice and fruity while baking. Although I was very careful to gently press the crumble top layer, it ended up a bit too compact for my liking. I think it would have been better if the top layer was more loose and more crumbly (these are crumble bars, after all). Adding in some oats to the leftover crumble mixture before sprinkling in atop the raspberry jam would also add a nice texture.
Unfortunately, I was not really a fan of these bars. Although the texture added by the cornmeal is nice, I found the bars too dense, both in texture and flavour, and could only eat a few bites at a time. There is also something unusual about the taste and I found them too sweet, probably due to the raspberry jam. Perhaps this might be different based on the brand of raspberry jam used, but for me to find a dessert too sweet it must really be in excess. If I were to remake these I would probably try to just puree some fresh raspberries and use that as a middle layer instead.
2 ½ cups all-purpose flour
½ cup sugar
2 tablespoons cornmeal
½ teaspoon baking powder
½ teaspoon salt
¼ teaspoon ground cardamom or ground allspice
1 cup cool unsalted butter, cut in pieces
1 cup raspberry jam
Preheat oven to 350°F. Line an 8-inch square pan with parchment paper so the paper hangs over the sides a little.
In a food processor, pulse together briefly the flour, sugar, cornmeal, baking powder, salt, and cardamom or allspice to blend. Add the butter and pulse until crumbly. Alternatively, if you do not have a food processor, whisk together the dry ingredients in a bowl, then cut in the cool butter pieces using your fingers until the mixture is crumbly.
Put 3 cups of this crumble texture into the prepared pan and firmly press down so that the mixture is even around the pan.
Stir the raspberry jam to soften it and spread it evenly over the pressed crumble.
Sprinkle the remaining crumble mixture on top and press down gently.
Bake the bars for about 30-35 minutes, until they just begin to brown around the edges. Cool the bars to room temperature, then chill them for at least 2 hours before slicing into 16 or 18 bars, depending on how big you want them.
Yield: 8 individual pavlovas Recipe: 129/200 “Back to Baking”, pp. 301
It is clear to me now that I really am not good at making meringue desserts. I have tried twice now to make Pavlovas, and they always crack. Very finicky desserts, these. I don’t know what I am doing wrong but I can never get them right. I followed tricks on the internet to try to prevent it from cracking, the main one being to let them cool down in the oven after baking by shutting off the temperature and cracking the door open. However, by doing this I think the Pavlovas continued to bake and they were sadly overbaked and quite dry. I also put one blueberry too many on the baked and cooled Pavlova, and it simply collapsed under the weight. Sadly I was not a fan of this recipe, not only because of my technical failures, but the taste was also quite strange to me. I did not enjoy the mixture of balsamic vinegar and chocolate, although it did smell good as it was baking. Disappointing effort on my part, but it was still nice to try! Let me know if you have any tips and secrets for a fool-proof Pavlova that doesn’t crack!
Update – I have been munching on the unassembled Pavlova shell over the past couple of days and I actually quite like it. Perhaps without the cultured crème fraîche I can appreciate more the flavour of the chocolate pavlova itself. Not all is lost.
Preheat oven to 275°F. Cut two sheets of parchment paper to fit 2 baking trays, and trace 4 circles about 4 inches across on each paper. Place them on the trays, marker side down.
Whip the egg whites and cream of tartar until they are foamy, then slowly add the sugar and continue whipping at high speed until the whites hold a stiff peak when the beaters are lifted. The egg whites should be thick and glossy.
Stir the cocoa powder and cornstarch over the whites and fold in gently.
Quickly fold in the balsamic vinegar and vanilla extract.
Dollop a generous cupful of meringue onto each circle drawn onto the parchment paper. Gently press an indent into the centre of each, but don’t flatten or spread the meringue too much.
Bake the Pavlovas for 75 to 90 minutes, until they are dry on the outside. Let them cool to room temperature, then store in an airtight container until ready to serve.
Serve the Pavlovas with a dollop of crème fraîche on top of each, and sprinkle with fresh berries. The Pavlovas will keep, unassembled, in an airtight container for up to a day.
Yield: about 1 cup Recipe: 128/200 “Back to Baking”, pp. 320
I had never before done crème fraîche and although I was nervous to make it as I am with all fermented foods, it was pretty straight forward to make. Mine cultured for 36 hours as it is pretty humid here, and the cream thickened quite a lot. Since I was making this to accompany a dessert, I naturally assumed that this cream would be a bit sweet, forgetting of course that it is fermented with buttermilk so it does taste a bit sour. I realize now after trying a few different things that I really do not like anything sour in my desserts, especially not sour cream. However, if you do, this crème fraîche will be perfect for you and you can add little dollops on a variety of desserts. To each our own!
1 cup whipping cream
1 tablespoon buttermilk
Stir the whipping cream and buttermilk together, and pour the mixture into a plastic or glass container. Place this container into a bowl and fill the bowl with hot tap water, just to the level of the cream. Place this in a warm, draft-free place to culture for 24 to 48 hours. Time will depend on humidity.
Check the fragrance of the cream for a fresh citrus or sour aroma, and chill the crème fraîche without stirring until set, about 3 hours.
To use, spoon off the crème fraîche and dispose of the liquid whey at the bottom. The crème fraîche will keep in the fridge until the best-before date of the cream.
Yield: 16 large cookies Recipe: 127/200 “Back to Baking”, pp. 46
Flour is once more abundant in my home. Well, not abundant but many pounds more than I had a few weeks ago. As such I have ramped up my baking once more and I was excited to try these raspberry, lemon and white chocolate rugelach. I had never heard of these Jewish delicacies, but I am very glad to have discovered them. These were truly one of the best cookies I have ever made. I say cookie, but truly they are more in between a cookie and a pastry. A cootry? A paskie? That sounds better.
¾ cup unsalted butter, at room temperature
½ package (4 oz) cream cheese, at room temperature
1 tablespoon sugar, plus extra for sprinkling
2 teaspoons finely grated lemon zest
2 cups all-purpose flour
¼ teaspoon salt
⅔ cup raspberry jam
60 g (2 oz) white chocolate, cut in chunks, or ½ cup white chocolate chips
1 egg white, for brushing (optional, see notes)
These paskies smelled fantastic while baking, looked quite cute and tasted delicious. I don’t know what I was expecting, but I did not expect them to be that good. I don’t know why I thought this since raspberry and chocolate is a match made in heaven, so thankfully I was pleasantly surprised by the sweet yet not overly sweet pastry. Cookie. Not sure. Anna Olson proves once again that cream cheese is truly a secret weapon in pastry. The dough was perfectly flaky and just melted in the mouth with each bite. Truly a scrumptious treat to enjoy with some nice tea.
Using a hand or stand mixer, beat the butter and cream cheese until smooth.
Beat in the sugar and 1 teaspoon of the lemon zest.
Add the flour and the salt and stir until the dough evenly comes together. Shape the dough into 2 discs, wrap each in plastic wrap and chill for at least one hour.
Preheat the oven to 350°F. Line a baking tray with parchment paper.
On a lightly floured surfaced, roll out the first disc of dough into a circle about 12 inches (30 cm) across and just shy of ¼ inch thick. Trim away the rough edges.
Stir the raspberry jam to soften it, then stir in the remaining 1 teaspoon of lemon zest. Spread half of the jam over the surface of the dough, right to the edges. Sprinkle half of the white chocolate over the jam.
Cut the dough into 8 wedges, and roll up each cookie from the large edge to its point, very much like a croissant, and place the cookies one inch apart on the baking tray.
Repeat steps 5-7 with the second disc of dough.
Whisk the egg white until it is very foamy and brush each cookie with it.
Sprinkle the cookies generously with sugar.
Bake the rugelach for 20-25 minutes, until they are an even golden colour. Let the cookies cool on the tray before removing them to store.
Note from Anna:
These can be made egg-free by simply brushing the tops of the rolled cookies with milk in place of the egg white.
Yield: 24 cookies Recipe: 126/200 “Back to Baking”, pp. 37
As the weeks of quarantine are prolonged, my supply of flour is decreasing at an alarming rate. I have only a few more recipes’ worth of flour as there is a nation-wide shortage and I have been unable to get my hands on some, so I have to choose my last few bakes carefully. Of course I was looking for a little cookie or hand-held dessert to eat with tea in the evenings. And so came these chocolate-dipped madeleine cookies.
These cookies are interesting because they look like cookies but have more the consistency of a cake. They are like small, very cute portable cakes. They are simply delicious and the orange purée in the cookie really comes through, marrying very well with the chocolate. To be made time and time again, undoubtedly.
1 medium-sized navel orange
½ cup unsalted butter, at room temperature
¾ cup sugar
2 eggs, at room temperature
½ cup all-purpose flour
½ cup ground almonds
¼ teaspoon salt
¾ cup chocolate chips
Preheat oven to 350°F. Grease and flour a madeleine pan, tapping out any excess flour.
Roughly chop the whole orange, with the peel on, making sure to remove any seeds, and place in a small saucepot. Cover the orange with water and simmer until almost all the liquid has evaporated, about 10 minutes. Remove from the heat, cool, then purée in a blender. Measure ½ cup of the puréed orange to use for the madeleines.
Note: When reading this recipe I was very uncertain whether I really truly had to put the whole orange, peel included, into the pot with water. It seemed so counter-intuitive! But yes, you must. During the time in which the water will evaporate almost completely, the orange peel will soften and lose all its bitterness. Perfect and simple way to make a lovely orange purée.
I didn’t have a navel orange so used a blood orange instead, and it worked out very well. The purée by itself tasted very nice and citrusy, full of flavour.
I don’t have an actual blender so used my hand mixer instead, and that also worked out for me. A food processor should also do the trick if you are in a pickle.
Using a stand or hand mixer, beat the butter and sugar until fluffy.
Beat in the eggs and mix until well combined.
In a separate bowl, whisk together the flour, ground almonds, baking powder and salt. Add this to the butter mixture, stirring until just incorporated.
Stir in the ½ cup of orange purée.
Spoon the batter by tablespoonfuls into the prepared madeleine pan and bake for 18-20 minutes, until golden brown. Let the madeleines cool in the pan before gently removing.
Note: these madeleine cookies change colour quite quickly near the end, so make sure to keep an eye on them starting about 16 minutes to make sure that they don’t become too brown and overbaked.
Melt the chocolate chips by stirring them in a metal bowl placed over a pot of barely simmering water. Dip each madeleine halfway into the melted chocolate, shake off excess and place each on a sheet of parchment paper to set. Store in an airtight container.